| Back to Articles | Back to the Catalog | Search | home |

HOME & GARDEN
Spring, 2002

There are some 4,400 species of earthworms, but redworms (Eisenia fetida) or the red wigglers that abound in manure are the variety that will thrive best in a worm bin, says Appelhof. They are capable of processing large amounts of organic material, reproduce in a bin situation, don't produce extensive burrows, and tolerate a wide variety of environmental and temperature conditions. One doesn't necessarily need to purchase their worms, but since worms are so inexpensive, it is a way of ensuring one starts off with the right variety, she notes.

Redworms feed most rapidly and convert waste best at temperatures between 59-77 degrees Fahrenheit (15-25 degrees centigrade), according to Appelhof. The bins can be placed outdoors on a patio, in the garden or by recycling containers, or even on an apartment balcony in warm weather. If necessary, they can be brought indoors during winter.

Worm composting systems can be designed based on the lifestyle of the composter. If the individual or family wants to produce more worms than they started with for use as fishing bait, and doesn't mind harvesting the bin every two to three months and getting a vermicompost that is less finished than if it was left for longer periods, a higher level of maintenance would be required. Systems with lower levels of maintenance and a more finished vermicompost are also options.

The ideal worm bin is rectangular and shallow, usually no more than 12-18 inches deep since redworms tend to feed upwards. More surface, more nibbling, says Appelhof. Bedding can also pack down in a deep container pushing the air out of the bottom layers and causing the development of foul-smelling anaerobic conditions. The ideal condition is an aerobic environment, where oxygen in present throughout the bedding. It is not only the worms but also the millions of aerobic microorganisms, which break down the food, that require the oxygen.

Wooden bins will "breathe" more than plastic but will deteriorate more quickly, says Appelhof. She cautions against selecting pressure-treated lumber because of the chemicals used in the treatment process.

In terms of size, Appelhof's "Worm-A-Way" comes in two sizes: the larger (20"x24"x12") will handle about five pounds of garbage per week; the smaller (16"x19"x13") will process about two to three pounds of garbage per week.

The least expensive and most readily available supply of worm bedding is newspaper strips shredded by hand, although a shredding machine produces long, tangled lengths that are more easily moistened. The inks are mostly soy-based these days and not harmful to the worms, says Appelhof. Decaying leaves as well as composted horse, rabbit or cow manures are also good bedding materials since manure is a natural habitat for redworms. Manure may have organisms such as mites that people would rather not have in their homes, however. Coconut fiber, wood chips mixed with leaves or other bedding material, and sphagnum peat moss are other possibilities. She does not recommend peat moss because she says the verdict is still out on whether it is a renewable resource. A handful or two of soil, some calcium carbonate (powdered limestone), or rock dust will provide the necessary grit to the bedding that will make the worms feel right at home.

You will want about one pound of worms per cubic foot of volume in your bins, according to Appelhof, but, since they will reproduce, you can start with half that amount. When setting up your worm bin, Appelhof advises preparing enough bedding initially so that the bin is three-quarters full. A rule of thumb is to use about three pounds of newspaper per cubic foot volume of the bin.

Since a worm's body consists of approximately 75-90 percent water and its surface must remain moist so the worm can "breathe," moisture is important in a worm bin, Appelhof stresses. She suggests using about one-third less water in a plastic bin because plastic accumulates water. She recommends using a water:bedding ratio of 3:1 by weight. You can easily weigh your bedding by first standing on a bathroom scale without it, then again holding it in a plastic bag, and then taking the difference between the two weights.

Assemble your vented bin by adding the bedding, grit, water and worms, gently spreading the worms over the surface and leaving the lights on so they will wiggle down into the bedding. Once the worms are down, you can start burying your garbage, she says, digging a hole deep enough to accept the garbage you are burying and covering the hole again once it is in. Any vegetable waste generated during food preparation can be used. It's the perfect solution to the moldy cottage cheese at the back of your fridge and the leftover casserole that's been leftover a bit too long to be eaten by anyone other than worms. Refrain from putting meat in the bin to avoid putrid odors, reduce nuisance organisms, prevent possible injury from sharp bones and to enhance the overall appearance of the vermicompost, says Appelhof. Nor should you use non-biodegradable items or pet feces.

Appelhof keeps an open container above the sink to collect garbage waste (so her cats won't get at it and air can reach the garbage to prevent foul odors). She empties it into her bin about twice a week, covering the newly deposited waste with an inch or two of bedding.

If you don't care to harvest your worms, the trade-off is loss of your worm population. Appelhof, worm woman that she claims to be, lives up to her title by finding worm separating a "therapeutic experience."

If you want to separate, gather a large sheet of heavy plastic, a gooseneck or similar lamp with a 100-watt bulb if you are working inside, a container for the worms, a plastic or metal can for the vermicompost and fresh bedding. Spread the plastic sheet on the ground, dump the entire container of the worm bin on the plastic, make about nine pyramid-shaped piles and expect to see worms all over the place. If the light is bright enough, they will quickly move away from it into to the centers of the pyramids. If you leave the piles alone for ten to 15 minutes, you won't see a single worm, she promises. Gently harvest the outer surface of each pile, causing the newly exposed worms to dig into the center of the pile again. Once you have done this several times, you will have a pile of pure worms. Place the worms on a scale, weigh them, and add them to your bin with new bedding to start the process again.

Tom Ogren, a horticulturist and author of Allergy-Free Gardening, The Revolutionary Guide to Healthy Landscaping (Ten Speed Press), who is interviewed for another article in this section, says, "Raising a bunch of garbage-chomping redworms turned out to be one of the easiest and most satisfying things I've ever done in my garden. The benefits of worm castings (and worms) to soil structure is just now really starting to be understood. Here in California, worm castings are being used to combat such deadly plant diseases as Pierce's disease [grapes] and 'sudden death oak 'disease with interesting and promising results."

Appelhof has also co-authored Worms Eat Our Garbage Classroom: Activities for a Better Environment (Flower Press, $22.95), and has developed a 26-minute video with funding from the National Science Foundation called Wormania ($34.90), which incorporates footage of worms in their natural habitat as well as in the laboratory. She sells worms for $19 a pound or $34 for two pounds, as well as a teachers' manual, a second video of worms by an equally passionate science teacher, her Worm-A-Way bins and assorted T-shirts and other items.

For more information, contact Appelhof at Flowerfield Enterprises, 10332 Shaver Road, Kalamazoo, MI 49024; by phone at 269 327 0108; or via the Internet at <www.wormwoman.com>.

<- prev -- page 2 of 2